Scotland - Edinburgh

Scotland’s capital city has been called many different names over the centuries, not all of them flattering. Some know it as ‘Auld Reekie’ (Scots for Old Smoky) because the buildings were heated with coal and wood fires which sent columns of thick smoke into the atmosphere. Kinder names include the ‘Athens of the North’ and ‘Empress of the North’. But perhaps the best description comes from writer, Robert Louis Stevenson who was born in the city and said: “It is what Paris ought to be”. If this is a creating a somewhat confusing impression then why not visit and find out yourself which description best fits the place.

Edinburgh is served by its own airport just half an hour outside the city as well as by fast train services from England, Glasgow and further north into the highlands. It is in the eastern part of the Central Lowlands of Scotland, bounded by the Firth of Forth to the north and the Pentland Hills skirting the city to the south. Its setting is unique and dramatic. The city sits on top of a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags which rise from the mainly flat landscape of the Lothians and its skyline is dominated by the imposing sight of Edinburgh Castle, home to Scotland’s Crown Jewels. Standing on its ramparts you can view sweeping terraces of Edinburgh’s Georgian villas as well as medieval lanes and cobbled streets, the famed Royal Mile and Princes Street.

Modern-day Edinburgh is a buzzing place welcoming over 1 million visitors a year. This dynamic capital has something to appeal to everyone. It holds the world-famous Edinburgh Festival, the largest arts festival in the world which literally takes over the city and offers every conceivable type of artistic feast for the senses including theatre, opera, ballet, classical music, rock, jazz, fringe theatre, street theatre and much more. Its dates for 2010 are August 6 – 30 and it’s advisable to book accommodation early whether you want to stay in a peaceful log cabin or holiday home on the outskirts of the city and commute in or a city centre hotel. Visit Edinburgh at a quieter time and you’ll still be able to enjoy fantastic theatre attracting some of the world's leading performers as well as galleries displaying cutting-edge art, great bars, restaurants and clubs all with a lively, cosmopolitan feel, but with an appealing Scottish edge. Edinburgh also has some of the finest shopping, both for traditional Scottish merchandise like shortbread, clootie dumplings, more whiskies than there are days in a year and tartan as well as the latest designer labels in all the best shops including Harvey Nichols and Jenners which one of Scotland’s oldest department stores.

After all the shopping and sophistication, don’t miss Edinburgh’s other many attractions. There are two other castles within the city limits that chart Scotland’s turbulent history; the castle of Craigmillar is one of the most perfectly preserved and retains the character of a medieval stronghold. First built in the early 15th century, over the next two and a half centuries the castle became a comfortable residence surrounded by fine gardens and pastureland. Craigmillar Castle has an important part in the story of Mary Queen of Scots. She fled there after the murder of Rizzio and it was here that the plot was hatched to murder Mary’s husband, Lord Darnley. Today it is a handsome ruin with many private rooms linked to the hall of the old tower. Less well know is Lauriston Castle, built much more recently – in Edwardian times – and housing a fine collection of decorative arts.

Just outside the City Centre is Leith and it is here on the edge of Ocean Terminal, Edinburgh’s waterfront with over 70 shops and a cinema, that The Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed following 40 years of service to the Royal Family. On a stroll around the decks of this magnificent ship you’ll discover how famous guests including Sir Winston Churchill, Gandhi and Nelson Mandela were entertained on board.

The children will love to spend the day at Edinburgh Zoo. It’s open 365 days a year and is home to over 1,000 animals. It has links with conservation projects in Uganda and at the zoo itself, helping to save endangered wildlife. Exhibits at the zoo include ‘rainbow landings’, an area of free-flying birds, the Budongo Trail, penguin parade and hilltop safari.

Horticulturalists won’t want to miss a visit to Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Garden. It is a world renowned centre for plant research, conservation and education in the most glorious setting just outside the City. Divided into four gardens, more than 15,000 plant species are grown here making this a plant collection to rival Kew Gardens in West London. The four gardens at the Royal Botanic Garden are:

• ‘Windows on the World’ at the heart of which is a magnificent Victorian Palm House housing steamy rainforest plans through to those that like desert conditions
• The Queen Mother’s Memorial Garden – a tribute to a much-loved member of the Royal family drawing on Celtic imagery with ornamental plantings from Asia, North America, Europe and the Southern Hemispher
• A Garden For All Seasons – this has a world famous rock garden, a Chinese hillside and, in summer, the most fragrant herbaceous border
• The John Hope Gateway – this new garden is the most instructive of the four offering visitors the chance to discover the science behind plants through interactive experiences and a biodiversity garden.

Edinburgh is a beautiful and inspiring place. Make sure it’s on your itinerary when next you travel to Scotland.

 

The Cairngorms

The Cairngorms have often been described as ‘the roof of Scotland’ and the landscape of its National Park, Scotland's second and the UK's largest is spectacular. Forged by glaciers over 10,000 years ago, this stunning area has everything from arctic tundra on the high mountains to ancient pinewoods with the evocative fragrances of pine, juniper and birch lower down in the glens.

The area is paradise for seeing wild animals and birds in their natural habitat. You’ll see herds of red deer sweeping across the skyline, majestic golden eagles, the snowy owl at dusk, pine marten, black grouse, Scottish crossbill – a bird that’s unique to the Cairngorms - .ospreys fishing for their lunch and otters too. The Cairngorms is also home to Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd, introduced to Scotland in 1952 by Swedish herder, Mikel Utsi, and now managed and cared for at the Reindeer Centre at Glenmore Lodge, six miles from the ski resort of Aviemore. You can join a guide to visit these gentle reindeer, feed and stroke them and even ride them in the summer months by joining a reindeer trek. It takes half a day at a leisurely pace across the lower slopes of the Cairngorms. You’ll travel across open moorland with views of the Northern Corries, down into the ancient Caledonian Pine Forest.

Hill walkers are spoilt for choice in the region too with literally dozens of walks to choose from. There are strenuous hikes like the 10 kilometre one from Beinn a’ Bhuird (Gaelic for ‘hill of the table’) where the climb is to 1197m and covers vast mountain stretches to more moderate and relaxing walks taking in crofting villages along the way, relaxing ambles along the riverside and woodland and picturesque walks in the forest. Perhaps one of the most appealing, however, is a circular walk around two lochs – Loch an Eilein and Loch Gamhna in Glenmore Forest.

Aside from hill walking, admiring the scenery and enjoying the wildlife, there’s also a huge range of outdoor sporty activities that will appeal to all the family including canoeing, sailing & kayaking, rock climbing, mountain biking, gorge walking, fishing and, of course, alpine and cross country skiing if you take a winter break in the Cairngorms. Many of these sports can be arranged through G2 Outdoor, based in Aviemore.

No description of holidaying in Scotland would be complete without mentioning golf and highland golf has a character of its own. Within the Cairngorms National Park there are over a dozen great golf courses to choose from and you can purchase the Aviemore and the Cairngorms Golf Pass during your holiday which will allow you play at no less than eight courses; it currently costs just £15 and will also give you a reduction of 30% off the cost of green fees.

Lastly, don’t leave the area without learning a little about its history, best done by visiting some of Scotland’s most illustrious castles like Braemar, Balmoral and Blair Castle in this majestic setting.

Strathyre

The village of Strathyre lies at the head of pine fringed Loch Lubnaig, and is often described as 'the first highland village'. Right in the heart of the Trossachs, it’s an excellent place from which to start exploring this beautiful land of the lochs the largest of which is the famous Loch Lomond. It would be a pity to miss out on seeing some of the others, though, and Loch Lubnaig, one of the smallest, is arguably amongst the most beautiful lochs in Scotland; watched over by the towering might of 3,000 foot high Ben Ledi it’s the perfect place to simple sit and stare at the scenery or get involved in some active water-based activities. Many of the Lochs around here are prime spots for fishing; at Loch Lubnaig your catch of the day might include salmon, brown trout, char, pike or perch and you can hire all the necessary equipment – or a boat to fish from - nearby. If fishing is too sedentary a past time for you, other more sporty options to try on the Loch include sailing, canoeing and windsurfing.
Nearby Loch Katrine has a long history of water-bourne travel. The first pleasure craft on the loch was a galley named the Water Witch, rowed by eight lads wearing the kilt. She reigned supreme until 1843, when the first steamer, The Gypsy, arrived. At the time, here was a great rivalry between the two forms of transport and despite being propelled by man-power rather than steam power, legend has it that the Water Witch was the faster although the modern technology of the day won out.

Poor Gypsey disappeared into the depths one night, believed to have been scuttled by a, now redundant, and disgruntled oarsman.
In more recent times a passenger steamer, the SS Sir Walter Scott, named after the 19th century author and poet of the same name who wrote ‘The Lady of the Lake’ and loved the area, has been plying the Loch. She is an impressive sight: 110 feet long, 19 feet wide and weighs 115 tons, and has sailed the waters of Loch Katrine since 1900. Following a major overhaul and refit in 2007, she even runs on bio-fuel today, though still with the original engine.

As you would expect there’s plenty of land-based activity to enjoy in this part of Scotland. The terrain is great for riding and pony trekking with everything available from the gentlest of rides for beginners to more demanding rides over the moors and mountain slopes where you can see some of Scotland's most spectacular birds among the fabulous scenery of the Trossachs. There’s also a special Bird of Prey Trail that can be explored by car, bike, or on foot. It starts near Aberfoyle in Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and ends at the Argaty Red Kite centre at Doune. If you have a little more time, there’s also a circular route via Callander, Doune, Thornhill and Lake of Menteith.

Callander situated beneath the tallest mountain in the Trossachs, Ben Ledi, and flanked on the south side by the River Teith, is also an attractive and bustling Highland town – the largest in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park. Here you’ll find the Rob Roy and Trossachs Visitor Centre, where you can learn about the famous flame-haired clan leader and revolutionary. The exhibition brings his exploits to life and there’s also a cinematic tour of the Trossachs and a children's play area to enjoy.

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